True Glow Purity Cleanser

What a cleanser for oily skin is

A cleanser for oily skin is a rinse-off product formulated to remove excess sebum, sweat, sunscreen and the day's grime from the surface of the skin without stripping the barrier that keeps it comfortable. It is a cosmetic, not an acne treatment: it clears the surface so that the rest of your routine, and any treatment your doctor prescribes, can do its job.

Oily skin starts in the sebaceous glands. A review of sebaceous gland function describes sebum production as hormone-driven and explains why over-active glands, blocked follicle openings and bacteria together set the stage for breakouts. Cleansing addresses only the first part of that chain, which is why a cleanser can help keep oily skin comfortable and clear-looking but cannot, on its own, be expected to prevent acne. Our articles on understanding sebum and keeping shine in check and why acne happens explain the rest of the chain.

The second thing a cleanser must do is leave the barrier alone. A review of mild cleansing technology describes how harsh surfactants bind to skin proteins and strip lipids, leaving the surface tighter, drier and more reactive; milder systems clean with much less of that damage. In Singapore's humidity the temptation is to scrub oily skin hard, and the usual result is skin that feels tight by lunchtime and shinier by evening.

That is the brief the True Glow Purity Cleanser is written to: formulated for acne-prone and oily skin, cleansing away excess oil thoroughly while helping keep pores clear, without stripping the skin. For a longer discussion of textures, pH and what to avoid, see our guide to choosing a cleanser for acne-prone skin.

How to use it within the True Glow ritual

The directions on this page are: use morning and night, massage over damp skin, then rinse thoroughly. A few details make the difference.

Twice a day, not more

A randomised trial of face washing in men with mild to moderate acne compared washing once, twice and four times a day for six weeks with the same mild cleanser. The once-a-day group saw inflamed spots increase, the twice-a-day group saw non-inflamed spots improve, and the authors found that washing more often neither helped nor clearly harmed. Morning and night is the sensible rhythm; after sport or heavy sweating, a third rinse with water is enough.

Technique

Wet the face with lukewarm water, not hot. Work a small amount of cleanser between the palms, then massage over the whole face for 30 to 60 seconds, paying attention to the nose, chin and hairline where oil collects. Rinse thoroughly, because residue left behind is a common cause of the tight feeling people blame on the cleanser. Pat dry with a clean towel; do not rub.

Where it sits in the ritual

Cleansing is the step before everything else. On ordinary days, follow with your moisturiser and, in the morning, sunscreen. During recovery from a procedure, the Post Laser Intensive Recovery Serum goes on after cleansing; on freshly treated or weeping skin, use the cleanser only once your clinic has cleared it.

What to look for, and what to avoid

These are general points for any cleanser for oily or acne-prone skin, not a comparison of brands.

Look for

• A finish that is clean but not squeaky. Skin should feel fresh and comfortable after rinsing. Tightness is a sign of stripping, not of a deeper clean.
• A mild, skin-friendly pH. A study of 330 volunteers measured the natural surface pH of skin at about 4.7, and found that even tap water raises it for hours. Cleansers close to that range respect the skin's resident flora.
• Fragrance-free or low fragrance. Acne-prone skin is often reactive skin, and fragrance is a common irritant.
• A texture that suits the climate. Gel and light foaming textures rinse cleanly in humidity; richer cream cleansers suit skin that has been over-cleansed and needs a rest.
• Plant-based and steroid-free. The True Glow range is plant-based and free from steroids and hydroquinone.

Avoid

• Scrubbing and grainy exfoliating washes on skin with active spots; they spread inflammation and raise the risk of dark marks afterwards. See our article on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• Hot water and long washes. Both remove more of the barrier lipid than the cleanser does.
• Washing more than twice a day in the hope of controlling shine; it adds little and can leave skin tight.
• Treating a cleanser as the whole plan. Painful, deep or scarring acne needs a doctor; a cleanser supports treatment, it does not replace it.

How Dr Sin Yong uses it

The True Glow Purity Cleanser is a favourite of Dr Sin Yong for his acne-prone patients. For his own patients he chooses the True Glow Purity Cleanser for acne-prone skin, used morning and night as the first step of the routine.